Blogs
El Rastro
The book/ movie confessions of a shopaholic came out and I laughed. I saw it mostly because I was skeptical that it wasn’t someone writing my biography! Alas, it was not, but let’s just saw that I am a close second to Ms. Rebecca Bloomwood.
I didn’t know what paradise looked like, but I think I may have found it! When I first got to Madrid, I didn’t understand how none of the stores open on Sundays. Somehow I missed that Madrid was home to the world’s largest open air market, and I think the whole city is there! Every Sunday in what is essentially midtown, a few thousand stalls open their stalls to several thousands of people—many locals and even more foreigners, all in search of something from a new pair of shoes to a antique collectable urn. This market has it all.
People yelling in languages that I kind of understand. Fearing for the safety of my purse. Making a fool out of myself trying to haggle in a language over which I have very little command. It’s all very disconcerting, though entirely exhilarating at the same time. The only thing I have previously experience that I can liken to this adventure is going to the bazaars and trying to shop in India.
The street fairs in New York aren’t nearly comparable to the ridiculousness that is el rastro. People are screaming, things are going on all sides of you, you’re clutching onto your purse for dear life for fear of getting pick pocketed (which everyone will warn you about—several times). It is mayhem, and you don’t know where to look first. I tried to start from the northernmost point and work my way south. That worked for a while, until more stalls began to open up on side streets going every –which-way. And since Madrid isn’t, like New York, set up on a grid there was no way I could keep track of everything.
I finally gave up trying to maintain my narrow minded route and tried to just go with the flow. At the end of my four hour journey I came home with many a treasure: a shirt, three pairs of earrings, a pin, a scarf, a bookmark, and even a really cool looking purse hook. It was, without a doubt, more than I have ever accomplished before one in the afternoon!


i cant say that ive ever been
i cant say that ive ever been to egypt- but what you described sounds like what i know to be true of indian outdoor markets--luckily, though, i didnt feel that pushiness here in madrid.
also, of course i miss the grid- how can you not? it makes life soso much easier in terms of trying to get anywhere- but especially places youve never been--im kinda glad, im back in the city a month from today!
Indian bazaars
Is el rastro cleaner than the bazaars in India? Because from what I remember of most of the open-air markets in India they were dusty, unpaved squares full of people and things, animals ranging free, and lots of barefoot, dirty children. You said this market is in what is essentially midtown Madrid. From what I remember of my admittedly very short stay in Madrid it was a very clean place, especially the city center.
you're right nick, madrid
you're right nick,
madrid isn't even comparable to india's absolute filthiness- the only pollution i'm having trouble with here is the fact that everyone constantly has cigarettes lit in my face.
i wasn't necessarily talking about that aspect, though there are definitely cleaner, less street-rat-y, markets in india than the ones we went to.
i guess what i was trying to compare was the people, their lack or regard for personal space and the way the stalls are set up, beckoning you in, albeit in slightly different ways!
Your description reminds me
Your description reminds me of bazaars in Egypt. In Egypt, people constantly yell at you and if you pause at their stall for even a minute, they'll shove something in your hand and try to get you to buy it. Are the vendors in Madrid like that?
Also, do you ever find yourself missing the grid system that makes NYC? I know that here in London there is no such grid and I constantly miss the ease the grid provided. Though sometimes it is nice just to go with the flow and see where that takes you