La Fiera

the gnomes

An old open-aired piano sat on the cobblestone street under the Argentine sun. It was accompanied by a 20-something year old banging on its beaten keys. He was also accompanied by 6 others that were playing away on violins and xylophones. In harmony they created perfect beats in a tango-ish tune. Blocks away, dreadlocked amigos sat on the street corner drums in hand. A completely different beat flooded the street. Yet, another block away a rock band sang a Beatles song. Every Sunday at San Telmo there is a two mile long street fair compacting hundreds of diverse people into a skinny cobblestone strip. Looking over it from the end of the fair you can see a swarm of hundreds of moving heads far into the distance.

The items being sold vary from antique trinkets to hand woven sweaters. One end of the fair resembles a second-hand vintage store. Old dresses and shoes line the streets, but so do buttons, hooks, sunglasses, and radios from the nineties. Further along the strip, leather belts and bags are sold, an Argentina specialty. Fur hats and coats seem a bit ridiculous in the streets, but many ladies still buy them anyways. Racks of leather jackets are on the corners. The jewelry is amazing. It is so bright and exotic. There are many woven necklaces and bracelets. The ring assortment is insane: spoons, wired and beaded, buttoned, and jeweled. Photographs and paintings color the street. Argentine CD’s are laid out for the curious tourists. Every type of matte (a typical Argentine tea) gourds are at your reach. And for some odd reason, gnomes are a big hit. Many hand-crafted gnomes dressed in various outfits are for sale on every block.

As you manage to stroll your way down the extremely busy street, you come across the culture of Argentina in a day. All the locals come together to sell their goods and hang out with their friends. Medialunas and empanadas are being sold along the street. Orange juice is being squeezed right before your eyes. Music fills every block. Tango dancers pose for pictures. Art galleries are situated behind the booths. It is full of commotion and chaos, yet is delightfully relaxed and laidback, just as the Argentine approach to life. Today I walked out of San Telmo empty handed, but with a day full of experience. You do not need to buy a single item. Just the experience of La Fiera is all you need. 

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