On My Accra

Kwame Nkrumah Points to the Future Before I came to Ghana, all I really knew about the program and the country was what I gleaned from Facebook stalking people I knew who were there. Sometimes I wish I'd known more and others, I am happy I knew so little. Ghana is not a place you can prepare yourself for, beyond stocking up on malaria meds, advil, cotton t-shirts and sunscreen. You can google image Accra, read some guide books, but cliché as it sounds, you have to see it to believe it. You have to be here to understand. Because of this I find it difficult to describe my everyday experiences to friends and family back home. I usually just tell people that everything is "fine" and that they should check out my blog, which they never do. Not only do I have a difficult time describing Ghana to others, I often get the feeling that people don't really care to try and understand. It's too much effort. That said, let me try to paint a picture of this city for prospective NYU in Ghana students.

Accra is always hot. When I arrived in August, everyone was quick to warn us that the rainy "cool" season was ending and the harmattan would blow and it would get HOT. I couldn't imagine it getting much hotter, but I hoped it would become less humid. Not only has the average temperature at midday risen by four or five degrees celsius, but the humidity has not abated one bit. Bring plenty of cool loose clothing. You will be warned to dress more conservatively in Ghana than in the US, but don't take that too much to heart. In rural areas it may be slightly different, but in Accra shorts are fine, tank tops are fine, anything that you wouldn't feel uncomfortable wearing on the New York subway is fine. Also, AC is scarce, so cool clothing comes in handy indoors and out.

The best days I have had in Accra have been spent exploring the city. The largest markets, Kaneshie and Makola, can be stressful, but are always bright and bustling. Market women in particular can be weird about letting you take their picture, but sometimes spending five minutes chatting with them before pulling out your camera and asking for a shot is worth it. You can find anything you need at the markets and all prices are negotiable. Ghanians like to tell obvious newcomers that their product has a set price. Never settle for this. Even if I still end up getting ripped off, I save a little dignity by bargaining.
The beaches around Accra are also amazing. Take advantage of Ghana's beaches. The sand is white, the palm trees line the coast, the rastas lounge in the sand. The best beach I have visited is Kokrobite, about an hour or 45 minutes drive from the residences. The beach is never crowded, but there are sometime shady locals so don't go alone. The beaches in Accra are fun for late-night parties, but not for swimming. Not only is there a dangerous undertow, but people who dwell along the beach use it as a public restroom. You don't know what you'll be swimming with.Kokrobite: Heaven on Earth

It's great to make some Ghanaian friends, but to be honest, it can be difficult. Most of the Ghanaian people I have befriended have lived and studied outside of Ghana. There are so many cultural differences between the typical Ghanaian university student and the typical NYU student, that it can be hard to find common ground. Girls can be especially unfriendly with other girls. They think we come in and steal their men. Fair enough. I see plenty of study-abroad female students at the University of Ghana walking hand in hand with Ghanaian super-hunks. All that said, Ghanaians are typically very friendly and eager to befriend Americans. Sometimes they are even a little too friendly and it can be off-putting, but that's something we all get used to.

One of my friends on the program told me the other day that I have become markedly more patient since arriving in Ghana. She said this as I screamed with frustration when the power went out for the millionth time while we were watching a movie, so it seemed odd. It's true though. Sure, the power-outages and water-shortages and badgering men and sticky heat still get to me, but I've learned over time to handle them much better. Ghanaians are also notoriously slow, which made my blood boil when we arrived. Now I just take it all in my stride, and the temperature of my blood hardly rises. 10 minutes in New York will be enough to turn me into a stress-puppy again.

Nightlife in Accra is fantastic. It helps to have connections if you like to hit the clubs, but it's not nearly as necessary as in New York. Clubs are great, usually filled with men, which can be a little uncomfortable at times, but if you go with male friends you should be fine. Bars abound and range from huts without electricity and 30 cent shots to fancy hotel bars and cocktail lounges. There is also plenty of live music. The best place I've found to hit up regularly is Bywels in Osu on Thursday nights. You will also notice that ladies of the night frequent all popular nightspots. They are quite friendly.

All in all, I don't know how to sum Accra up in a few sentences, but let me try. It is a thriving metropolis made up of slums, mansions, fancy hotels, expansive markets, freeways, alleys...it's a constantly developing city, on the one hand poor, dirty and heart-wrenching on the other, affluent, peaceful, "developed". The best thing to do before you come to Accra is to expect nothing except a whole lot of hot fun.
Kaneshie Market: View of outdoor section of one of the largest commercial centers in Accra