Who says you need to spend a fortune to have the best of authentic Czech cuisine?

Traditional Czech Fare

Welcome to Prague, the hauntingly beautiful city known for its signature cheap pivo (that’s Czech for beer, folks), towering spires and romantic cobblestone streets that has increasingly become a place for tourists to frequent in their desire to explore Eastern Europe. Prague, while still relatively cheap by European standards, is still not the cheapest place one can find for food (though its pretty darn close!). You see, I’m talking from the perspective of the cheapest of the cheap here; the constantly hungry, sometimes inebriated, and pleasure seeking, the specimen known as the college student. Being here for an entire semester has posed the unique challenge of trying to experience a culture from an authentic (and delicious) perspective without spending too much money. Prague is a place where the distinctive culture of its people dictates everyday life, from attitudes and behavior, to customs, and of course, its food. Prague’s traditional Czech cuisine is hearty and filling, and quite good when one explores establishments mere steps away from typical tourists haunts. It is my pleasure to share some of these places with you, my oh-so-fortunate audience, and yes there will be some walking (but you’re supposed to be tourists and enjoy exploring).

To begin, I will state that many of these places are places that have been highly recommended to me by local Czechs, which I then chose to “Czech-out” (I had to throw in a bit of my incredible wit, for good measure, of course). However, at of the some places that I paid a visit, I was not able to eat some of the dishes because I am allergic to pork, which then led my all-too-willing friends to assist me yet somehow still leaving me with a sense of indebtedness toward them. Since when was eating a chore? Regardless, we begin our tour of Prague’s traditional Czech meals with the microbrewery restaurant known as Pivovarsky Dum, serving the one thing Prague is best known for: its beer. It is important to note that at the time this article was written, the exchange rate between the Czech koruna and the US dollar was 20kc to every 1 US Dollar. Pivovarsky Dum (Lipova 15, Prague 1) is a great microbrewery I discovered while here in Prague located not too far from the I.P. Pavlova metro stop, that offers 0.1 liter samples of some of the freshest beer I’ve had in Prague (including Pilsner) for not more than a few crowns, including flavors like sour cherry, coffee and banana beer. While not all the beer flavors tickled my fancy, one can leave the establishment with not spending more then 100kc, or five U.S. dollars, and with a satisfied beer belly (granted, I am a bit of a lightweight). While I don’t recommend trying the food here (it was fairly mediocre), those who choose to can grab something from the daily menu for 120 kc. Most of the waiters spoke fairly good English, and stopping by this place, though now somewhat often frequented by tourists, is worth the atmosphere and cheap beer alone.

After a slight buzz from said beer, make your way up to the Narodni Trida metro stop, which is available through several tram lines, including the 22, where you will find Prague’s best smazeny syr, or fried cheese sandwich, for a modest 35kc upon dismounting the tram. This stand is by and far the place to get most savory smazeny syr anywhere in Prague (believe me, I’ve gained weight trying to find it), with its perfectly flash fried and crunchy exterior, toasted bun and perfectly portioned tartar sauce. This is one place not to miss during your stay in Prague, and to make things even sweeter, the stand is open almost all-night long! So, now, after you’ve had some time to digest this appetizer of sorts, walk about ten minutes to Mala Strana (very close to the national theatre). Visit the restaurant Olympia (Vitezna 7, Prague 5, 11:00-24:00) was recommended to me by my Czech personal trainer Jirka Charvatova (who just happens to be a foodie) as one of the best places to try svickova, sliced and marinated beef sirloin in a cream sauce topped with cranberry compote served with knedliky, or traditional Czech dumplings, which will cost you about eight US dollars. The restaurant is a sister restaurant of the popular restaurant (for both locals and tourists alike), Kolkovna, a Pilsner affiliate, which means that plenty of fresh Pilsner beer is on tap at 39kc for a half liter in the almost kitsch-like atmosphere of the place.

So, I understand that all this continual walking and exploring of Praha might still leave you a bit famished, but luckily for you, dear reader, I’m not finished quite yet (don’t worry, I’ll give you a few moments to digest). If you’re in the mood for light fare, I have it on good word through a rather picky Czech vegetarian (yes, they do exist) named Lucie Pinusova, that a cheap Pilsner-affiliated restaurant (very appealing on several levels to college students) by the name of Ego (Obloukova 25, Prague 10, 11:00-24:00) has the best cesnekovy polevka, or garlic soup, this side of the Vltava river, at a mere 35kc. By contrast, the restaurant also serves some of Prague’s best klobasy, or grilled sausage, with mashed potatoes for 95kc. I realize that most people who come to the Czech Republic, are in fact carnivores, so if the infamous Czech roasted pork knuckle is what you’re after, I have just the place. My Czech friend David Strup dragged me to what he (and his nodding friends) agreed as the best place in Praha for pork knee/knuckle, teasing my hunger pangs (and desire to not break out in hives from an allergic reaction) while savoring every bite at of the classical Czech dish at U Provaznice (Provaznicka 3, Prague 1, 11:00-24:00) at a modest 235kc (a bit over 11 US dollars) for a savory and smoked meal. Squeals of delight erupted from David’s mouth as he ate, so I believe its safe to assume he was accurate in his assessment.

For traditional Czech goulas, our building R.A. Tyna, recommended I try a restaurant in nearby Vinohrady, which was her personal favorite for the Czech dish by the name of U Strecu (Budecksa 19, Prague 2), which served a hearty serving portion with knedliky, bread dumplings. I brought my friend Vicki along, who decides to deviate from my meal plan and order the Czech national dish of roast pork with dumplings and cabbage, and said it was quite possibly the best meal she had ever had in Prague. Our combined total, including two glasses of wine and tip, came out to 205kc, which was quite a nice surprise. Service was a bit slow in the very home-y atmosphere of the restaurant, but well worth the wait and price. We distracted ourselves by looking around at the odd assortment of seemingly misplaced items and framed advertisements (noticeably a rather odd Harley Davidson piece of memorabilia) on the barren whitewashed walls.

Now, the part that you’ve been waiting for (at least I have), the best part of a meal: dessert. Though my favorite dessert in all of Prague is one that is available everywhere, only one place makes it exactly the way it tastes best: U Knihovny (Veleslavinova 10, Prague 1) tucked away down a side street close to the Starometska metro stop with a surprisingly well-appointed interior and prices that go far under what the establishment could charge. A favorite of locals, this restaurant serves full entrees under 100kc, but their presentation of the Czech honey cake known as medovnik, at 39kc a slice, served with whipped cream and refrigerated to perfection, is one I urge you not to pass up. Reservations are recommended if coming at a busy time, as the establishment is quite popular. Lastly, for the Czech dessert and breakfast staple palacinky, I visited a place recommended by a girl my age, Tereza Zvolska, that I met while on the hunt for the cost-effective best of the best here in Praha. as one of the best places to enjoy its magnificent airy texture.  Café Louvre (Narodni 22, Prague 1, 9:00-23:30), is a rustic Parisian style café that boasts which sells the scrumptious items for 59kc a portion, topped with raspberry sauce and sour cream, and additionally boasts that it makes the “best coffee in Prague”.

So there you have it dear destitute readers, a guide to eating to your heart’s content here in Prague without breaking the bank and risking being inauthentic. The only thing I ask is that you return the favor kindly and take me with you; I am a college student, after all.

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