Hilla's blog

Carrie in Paris

Here in Paris, I have experienced a wide range of emotions: happiness, sadness, giddiness, homesickness, excitement, frustration, and I could go on and on… However, this being said, coming to Paris has been an absolutely amazing experience all around! Yes, there have most definitely been times that were better than others and even times when I questioned my decision, but as the semester draws to a close I would have to say that no matter what, Paris has been and will be an important of my undergraduate career as well as my life.

Thinking about all the things that I have had the opportunity to do over the course of the semester makes me feel so lucky: riding a golf cart around the grounds of a castle, seeing the Ballet (multiple times) at the beautiful Palais Garnier, eating several gourmet meals (on NYU’s tab), riding on the back of a moped at sunset, and making friends with Parisians and American who I may have never met otherwise. Thinking back on all these things, it’s hard to believe that I did it all in one semester and that there are many people who will never get the chance to do these things in a lifetime.

This course has really helped me to put me to put everything in perspective and appreciate my own unique experience. At times I would feel bad for being homesick or frustrated with life in Paris but when I came on the Place Studies website I could see how other people, who I could relate to, having similar problems and remind myself that this was just a part of study abroad in general not a reflection of my time in Paris. Also, reading everyone’s posts was often times inspiring! When I saw someone doing something really cool, I wanted to go out and do something equally as exciting and I could read the blogs of fellow NYU Paris(ers) to see what they were up to and maybe add their adventures onto my own list of things to do.

I know that when I get home and start showing all my friends and family my pictures and souvenirs, there are going to be little things that I start to miss about Paris in the same way that I have so many things I miss about America and New York. Most of all, I think I will just appreciate Americans a lot more and the security that comes with knowing how to get everything that you want when you want it. I will also appreciate being able to express myself completely. My French is very good at this point, but there are still times when I don’t feel like I can explain myself fully. I can always communicate an idea but there are certain ways to nuance what you are saying or elaborate that I am lacking from my French communication skills.

Many of you may or may not have caught the title of my first post, “An American Girl in Paris Part One.” This was a play of the title of the series finale of “Sex and the City,” when Carrie goes to Paris with The Russian. Much like Carrie, I came to Paris not having any friends, taking the plunge on my own and prepared to spend some time learning about myself and expanding my horizons. I was drawn to Paris for the Rich cultural history and, of course, the fashion and shopping. I thought the magic of Paris meant that everything would be perfect all the time but just like Carrie I learned that even one of the most beautiful cities in the world cannot replace the things closest to your heart and that at the end of the day, I am meant to be in New York. So to conclude my final post for this class I will end with another “Sex and the City” allusion, “There are those that open you up to something new and exotic, those that are old and familiar, those that bring up lots of questions, those that bring you somewhere unexpected, those that bring you far from where you started, and those that bring you back,” a quote that Carrie uses to describe relationships, but one that I feel can also sum up our experiences abroad.

Paris Woman

Going abroad is an important decision to any college student and is certainly not one that should be taken lightly. For those who are considering going abroad, I would recommend it 100%. It’s a great chance to get out of your personal bubble a little bit and experience something completely different from that to which accustomed, which is important for us all to do at certain times in our lives. As far as study abroad sites go, I would also happily recommend Paris but give some strong advice about how approach the opportunity.

If you are letting NYU do your housing, be as specific as possible on the housing information sheet. If you think you may have any preferences, go ahead and let them know! I thought that requesting a roommate would be enough to ensure that I would have one, but I was wrong and not living with someone is one of my biggest regrets from the semester. Especially if you are living alone for the first time, consider that doing it in another country may not be the best time. (no matter how independent you may think you are it’s nice to be able to share your experiences, good and bad, with someone at the end of the day) If you are not set on letting NYU do your housing, I would highly suggest finding a place on your own. The people who I know that did this got to live right where they wanted, with who they want, and for the price that they wanted- It’s not as hard as you might think. Basically what I am saying is be happy with whatever your living situation is going to be because no matter what, this is where you are ending your days and it is a good idea to end on a happy note.

Secondly, I would like to leave a note about packing. I am the QUEEN of over packing and this was one of my biggest concerns before I left. I would recommend bringing lots of layers. Paris has fickle weather and sometimes it can be really cold in the morning but then perfectly warm and sunny by the afternoon, so it is best to prepared! (this also means an umbrella that is small enough to keep with you all the times) This will also help you not to pack as much stuff because if you bring several things that you can wear multiple ways then it is easy to wear the same thing multiple times without it being too obvious.

On the issue of money, the exchange rate is a killer! If you try translating things from euros to dollars you will quickly realize you are paying twice as much for everything. To avoid this headache and painful reminder of our flailing economy, plan a budget (and stick to it!!) IN EUROS. Also, if you are not planning to open a bank account in Paris I would suggest having a Bank of America account because then you can withdraw cash from BNP Paribas with zero problems. Make sure you find out about fees for all your debit and credit cards before you leave! I had problems with this upon my arrival and it made settling in much more stressful.

My biggest piece of advice is to not be too caught up in what you think the experience should be. Not everyone is required LOVE their site in the sense that you want to stay another semester or move back at some point. This is also to say that you shouldn’t feel like a failure if you don’t meet your future French husband, or Parisian BFF. While it is awesome to be able to immerse yourself in the culture, it really is pretty hard to meet people with whom you will actually have a lasting relationship. But, this being said, don’t be afraid to talk and mingle with the Parisians when you go out… you never know! Study abroad is different for everyone and the experience is really up to you. You will have a lot of free time, so be prepared. Possibly start a list before you arrive of things you could do on your own when you have some time on your hands. Finally, make the best of it and do as much as possible!

OH YEA... Save yourself and your parents some paranoia and DON'T watch "Taken" before you leave...

My Not So Traditional Thanksgiving Dinner

This was my first Thanksgiving that I had ever spent away from home. I knew from the moment that I applied to go abroad Fall semester that this was a day that I would have to face sooner or later but it didn’t make it any easier, to be away from my family, friends and traditions of this holiday that I love so much.

Anyways, knowing that this was going to be a rough time for me, I decided well in advanced to make myself as busy as possible so that I wouldn’t have much time to think about missing real Thanksgiving in the U.S. This included a full day of errands to run, and class to attend. The day was to end with a Traditional Thanksgiving dinner, as promised by NYU in Paris, atop the Eiffel Tower and the next was to begin with a trip to Prague with two of my girlfriends for the remainder of the weekend.

I have to say, the entire weekend ended up being a great success! The dinner was absolutely wonderful and I was really impressed with NYU. They basically rented out the entire restaurant (the one that is on the first level, not the one at the very top) and somehow managed to get them to cook us a French version of Thanksgiving dinner. The food was great although perhaps not quite traditional! I sat at a huge table with my all of my closest friends in the program and enjoyed delicious wine and food.

Although the dinner was not the same as being at home with my family, I came to realize that I was having a once in a lifetime experience and I ended up having a wonderful time. How many other people can say that they ate their Thanksgiving dinner on the Eiffel Tower?

The next morning, my two friends and I left bright and early to go to Prague and we had a wonderful time. This was the first trip I went on outside of France, so I was really excited about it and Prague was the perfect place to pick. I felt like because it is a small city, especially relative to Paris, it was easy to see the sites get a general feel of the city within the time constraints of the weekend. Not to say that our days weren’t jam-packed but this just made for a really fun weekend and just the type of distraction that I was looking for!

My Studio Apartment

After reading the de Botton chapter, “On Habitat,” I was rather struck by several things. First the quote that he implements at the very beginning, “the sole cause of man’s unhappiness is that he does not know how to stay quietly in his room,” really resonates with me at the moment. As I have previously mentioned in my blogs, I am currently living alone but to be honest, not really enjoying it. I love the city and all the great things that Paris has to offer, but at the end of the day I am always sad to leave my friends to go home to an empty apartment. And on days when I don’t have plans after class and I just come straight home it is even more annoying. Also because school here is so much less demanding than it is back in New York, I never really even have much homework to keep me occupied. I have come to think that my overall experience here in Paris might have been somewhat different if I had had a roommate with whom I could have taken in the trials and tribulations of daily life living abroad.

I always thought that I would like living alone, but I think that while abroad was probably not the right time to explore this theory. I think that this is partly because I came into the semester knowing very few people on the program and with none of my friends, whereas if I was living alone in New York I would have a much more established network of people as well as my rather hectic life to keep me busy.

De Botton also speaks of receptivity in this chapter, which also applies to my situation. When I first found out that I was going to be living alone, I decided the best way to approach the situation was with “receptivity.” I thought that maybe if I kept this open mind frame that maybe the situation would end up working out for the best and I would end up being happy that I opted to keep my studio. What I have really come to discover is that receptivity is very important when encountering a new place but perhaps not so important when it concerns you fixed habitat because this may ultimately dictate how you experience the rest of your surroundings.

Along with my personal and immediate habitat, I also think about the city itself, as it is my habitat. It has made me do a lot of comparison between how I experience my home city, Atlanta, as well as New York. I was struck by what de Botton says about home and “being more settled in our expectations, feeling assured that we have discovered everything interesting about our neighborhood,” but I would say that if anything, traveling has made appreciate home even more and think about the things that I have never gotten the chance to do or experience at home. It makes me want to make more of an effort when I return to try to experience all of the little things, like I do here in Paris.

Homeless in Paris

Like every big city, Paris has it’s share of homeless people. It’s funny how after living in an area for a while, you start to notice the same homeless people over and over again and you realize that while they may be homeless this is they have a neighborhood, the same as everyone else.

Last year, living in Carlyle, it was the couple outside of Whole Foods with the dog, and the year before that when I lived in U-Hall it was the old man who shouted “On the Catwalk” every time a pretty girl walked by. They become characters who are incorporated into our everyday lives even though we’ve probably never exchanged words or had much interaction with them. Sometimes I even find myself wondering if they recognize me by some weird trait of characteristic, as I do with them.

Well here in Paris, it is no different. On my walk to school each day, I tend to notice the same homeless people, or “sans abris.” However, there is one man who sticks out in my mind. I obviously don’t know his name, but for this entry’s purposes let’s call him “Franck.” I don’t know what it is about Franck that is so fascinating to me, but I have just been really intrigued by him ever since I first realized his presence. Franck looks exactly the same every day since the first time I saw him back in September. He wears a grey, wool, sweater/coat thing, he has a long full beard and crazy hair, and the longest finger nails that I have ever seen on a man. I guess as far as appearance goes he doesn’t look much different than any other homeless person that you would find. What gets me about Franck are his mannerisms.

When I see Franck, he is never just sitting on the ground with a cup for coins, like the others. He is always walking around. Right in the mix with everyone else, as if he has somewhere very important that he is going but he never actually goes anywhere. If you spend a significant amount of time out running errands on Rue de Passy, you will see him multiple times, always heading in a new direction or place. He just walks back and forth all day long. He never seems to be begging for money or food, just always walking around almost has if he is checking up on things. After all, it is his quartier too, right?

Georges: interior of the restaurant

Of course, Paris is home to tons of amazing restaurants, but last weekend I had the chance to go to one that I felt has something special above the rest. And when I say “above,” that is literally what I mean…

“Georges” is the name of the restaurant that sits on the top floor of the George Pompidou Centre. I had heard good reviews about this restaurant from several people, including some Parisians, so I have been dying to go but waiting for the right occasion since it is definitely on the pricey side.

When my friend’s parents arrived last Sunday morning and wanted to take us out to dinner that night, we decided that this would be the perfect opportunity to try it out; that, and on top of that it was one of the only nice restaurants on our list that was actually open on Sundays.

When I reached the top floor and got out of the elevator, I was immediately in love. The view was simply spectacular. As you walk down the corridor to the entrance of the restaurant, you come to the terrace, which would probably be the optimal dining location, weather permitting, before you actually enter the restaurant. When I got inside I was escorted through the modernly chic room to the table where my friend and her family were waiting. The room is completely enclosed by glass walls, so no matter where you sit, you are privy to a 360-degree view of the city.

The restaurant fits in completely with the modern art that is housed in this museum. The ceiling is brightly painted with exposed air vents and beams and there are these giant cave-like structures placed around the large room that are painted silver. Inside these structures are larger tables, of the most unusual shapes, where you would sit if you had an exceptionally large party, or were of particular importance.

The tables are sleek and even sexy, each with a tall vase containing a single, long stemmed rose and instead of a candle there is a light that dimly beams from inside the table. The wait staff is equally sleek and sexy, and to be honest, I wouldn’t expect anything less.

After eating one of the best meals I have had since I have been here in Paris, (wine, truffle ravioli in a cream sauce, and cheesecake 10x better than what we have in America) gazing over the city, pointing out all the landmarks we could find, and “ohhing and ahhing” as we watched the Eiffel Tower sparkle in the distance, I couldn’t have felt more satisfied.

This wasn’t my first rooftop dining experience, as I went to “Le Zyriab,” which is on the roof of the Institute du Monde Arabe (and which I would also highly recommend) with a group of my friends to celebrate one of their birthdays; however, there was just something about “Georges.” Maybe because I am a sucker for ambiance and atmosphere, or perhaps it was because there was a much younger scene at “George” but whatever it was, it just clicked for me and I really hope I will be able to go back before I leave.

Georges View: view from the terrace

Marchée d'Aligre: stall inside the market

The open-air markets that come around every weekend have been something I have truly enjoyed during my time here in Paris. These markets have a large spectrum of wares and I have enjoyed learning about what each one has to offer as I have done my weekend explorations.

The markets range from high-end flea markets selling second hand designer merchandise, to garage sale-like markets with random junk for you to sift through, and of course fresh food markets where farmers bring in all the freshest produce and other quality food items.

One of the first markets that I heard about and wanted to explore was the St. Ouen flea market in one of the northern banlieues (suburbs) of Paris. This is actually the largest flea market in the world and composed of several small markets, each with its own unique feel and specialty. To get to the market you have to get off the metro at Porte Cligancourt, which to be honest, is definitely not the nicest area. It was a little tricky to find, with all of the vendors, selling crap reminiscent to that of china town, surrounding it trying to sell their wares to confused tourists. Once you get beyond the doors to one of the actual markets, it’s as if you are entering a completely different world. These markets sell everything from vintage furs to old books, from Chanel to antique furniture. You could never explore all of the markets in one day, but it is certainly worth the trip.

Last weekend some of my friends and I ventured to an area in the 13th arrondissement, called Butte aux Cailles where we were told that we would be able to find some cute boutiques and specialty shops. It was an adorable little area to walk around but there actually wasn’t much in the way of cute shops however we did end up stumbling upon a random little market that resembled more of a community wide garage sale to me. Just like any garage sale, you had to hunt to find the treasures but they were certainly there and the prices were right. I came away with an antique looking bracelet for a mere 12€.

Finally there are the fantastic food markets. I went to the Marchée d’Aligre in the Bastille area this weekend and I would highly recommend it; however, on the weekends, you can find one in just about every arrondissement. Until recently, buying produce from a grocery store was completely unheard of in France. Everyone went to his or her local market to get all the freshest fruits and veggies direct from the farmers. While today it is more common and even acceptable to purchase your produce from the store, most people still frequent these markets. The produce is always extremely ripe and direct from the source, so the prices might be a little higher than what you see at the store but definitely worth it. However, buyers beware: it’s easy to get excited by all of the tasty looking things in these markets, but being overzealous when making your purchases can leave you with a whole lot of rotten fruits and vegetables before the next weekend even comes around. Because everything is so ripe and delicious, it will not keep for very long; so only buy what you are actually going to eat.

Merde: It's everywhere!

For my first reading for this class, I chose a book that gave a woman’s perspective on living in France for a year, so for my second choice, I decided to read a very similar story; however, from and man’s perspective. I originally thought that it would fun to compare the different perspectives of a man and woman who plan to spend a year in France. I also have to say that I was drawn to the book as well as highly intrigued by the title, A Year in the Merde (which translates to a year in the “shit”).

I couldn’t help but laugh when I realized that in part, the “merde” to which the author is referring is literally dog poop. It’s true; the dog poop here in Paris is quite the problem. Paris is definitely one of the most dog friendly cities in the world and don’t get me wrong, I love the pooches (and honestly wish I had one of my own here with me) but it’s the owners who I have a problem with.

Like the main character of the book, Paul West, I too have noticed that you can’t walk anywhere without going through the obstacle course of dog feces that litters the sidewalks. Also like Paul, I am highly disinterested in ruining my shoes after stepping in it, so I am constantly watching the ground, making sure that I don’t accidentally step into an unwanted surprise, which is a rather unfortunate thing to be doing when you are in a city with as many beautiful things to see as Paris.

I have decided to just accept the presence of dog poop as just yet another part of the Parisians’ blatant disregard for sidewalk etiquette. (i.e. stopping in the middle of the sidewalk, taking up the entire sidewalk, and of course, refusing to follow the “keep to the right” rule.) They just don’t clean up after their pets, despite the fact that there is a law against it and the owner faces a $600 fine if they are caught (not that there is ever anyone around to catch them…). Half the time they don’t even keep their dogs on a leash so how would they even know what the precious creature has left in its wake.

The city employs thousands of street sweepers who are supposed to take care of these little presents, but somehow it’s still a huge problem in everyday life and if these workers go on strike, you can just forget about it might as well slip on some of those little booties that you have to wear in the hospital. 

Champs Élysées at DuskThis week I accomplished one of my original goals for Paris. I went on a date with a real, live French boy, more specifically, a date that involved a moped.

Since I arrived in Paris, I have been drawn to these mopeds that you see everywhere you turn and admittedly the cute boys to whom they belong. I immediately decided that before I left I would have no choice but to procure a ride. Think The Lizzie McGuire Movie combined with Passport to Paris. So last weekend, as I left the nightclub with my friends and exchanged numbers with the cute guy I had been talking to the whole night, I was certainly excited to learn that he had a “bike,” as he called it.

Within the next few days, a time for the date had been arranged. My Tuesday class just happened to be cancelled, so I told him I would be free for the afternoon and left the plans up to him.

Much to my happiness, he suggested that he pick me up on his moped so that we could cruise around Paris for a while and then stop for a glass of wine or a café somewhere. When I started walking to meet him near my apartment I realized that I was really nervous. I have never been on a moped before… what if it is actually scary? What if my French isn’t good enough to carry on a conversation for the entirety of the date? (I think I may have forgotten to mention this, but he hardly speaks any English! Good practice for me, but a little intimidating.)

I forgot about my fears as soon as I put my helmet on. I have to say, that the actuality of this experience definitely lived up to my expectations. I am almost tempted to rent a moped for myself for the rest of my time in Paris!

Our destination: Café Marly, overlooking the pyramids at The Louvre. It was nice out, so we sat outside and ordered chocolat chaud and cheesecake to share. (Another side note: If you are in France, be sure to try the cheesecake. It’s by far my favorite dessert.) After we were finished eating, we walked over to the gardens of the Grand Palais, which were also wonderful.

At the end of the afternoon, we got back on the moped and headed back to the 16th so that he could drop me off. The date and my French were great, which of course pleased me and as we rode past the Champs Élysées, with the trees and the Arch de Triumph looming in the distance I have to say that I was having the ultimate, “I love Paris” moment.

Parisian Party

Since I arrived in Paris my ultimate quest has been to find French friends. For me, the idea of spending time with real, live Parisians seems like the most authentic thing that I could possibly do during my study abroad experience. I have this idea that if I hang out with young Parisians, this will be my key to all the other “back regions” of Paris, as MacCannell would put it.

It is also a very qualifying feeling to hang out with Parisians; a way to feel that you are assimilating into the culture rather than simply being a tourist, an outsider.

Being new to any city is always a hard feat to overcome. You never know right away where all the best things are: where to eat, where to party, where to shop? As a newcomer, especially in a foreign country, we are limited to travel guides and the recommendations our friends and family that have traveled to the same place before us. However, none of these recommendations ever seem good enough. We want to find the places where the locals go so that we can better disguise ourselves within the culture. I find myself constantly judging places by what the ratio of tourists to Parisians is inside. If there are a lot of tourists I don’t want to be associated with it and the more Parisians, the cooler I feel.

I feel that if I am able to find French friends, I will no longer have to rely on this ratio. They will take me out and show me all the things that I need to know, the secrets of their city. Those “back regions” which are only accessible to people in the know (or those who lack the dead give away: an American accent.) Perhaps an unassuming brasserie that just so happens to be better than all the rest, a bar that makes the most delicious mojitos you have ever tasted, or an unmarked restaurant tucked away behind closed doors? At least this is what I envision…

So far my quest for French friends has been somewhat of a success. I have managed to meet people through my classes and my nights out, who are usually enthralled with the fact that I come from NYC/ that I am American (so much for the French hating Americans… well at least the younger generation) and who are always happy to lend a reccomendation or two. Parfait!! However, I am still lacking the integration into an actual group and I am starting to think that this is possibly setting my sights a bit too high. Maybe I will settle for one French friend who I can crab a café with because no matter what I still feel that seeing the city from an insider’s perspective is what gives your experience the ultimate stamp of authenticity.