Nightlife

As promised, the beginning of my guide to life in Berlin:

Kreuzberg (Krzbrg, X-Berg)

Bars/Nightlife:

Roses: Orianienstr. Between Adalbertstr. & Heinrich Pl.

Roses Bar, marked only by a red and green neon light, tracing the shape of a rose, is a Kreuzberg favorite. Started by the lovable and loving British ex-pat, Gabriella, this small bar is an amalgamation of all things kitsch. The fuzzy pink walls marked with masks, miniature light shows, toy guns, and images of the Virgin Mary, will make you happier than the strong and reasonably priced drinks. Beers are limited, but they have every liquor under the sun. Highly recommended, unless you hate Halloween stores.

Franken Bar: Orianienstr. Between Adalbertstr. & Heinrich Pl.

Franken would like you to believe it’s a quiet joint that has enough regulars that it needs not draw in new crowds. This might be the case, but when midnight rolls around, the 90’s punk music (read: Pennywise) blaring out of the stereo does not match the unfinished wood floors or picnic table seating crowding this small bar. Mix this with a too-punk-to-serve-you waitstaff, and the only thing that’s left to make this place worth a visit are the cheap drink prices. Highly recommended, unless you have 50 more cents to spend on that drink.

Luzia: Orianienstr. Between Adalbertstr. & Dresdener Str.

Luzia, another Kreuzberg favorite, does not adverise itself from the outside. Surely, if you do enough digging on the inside, you will learn its name. But, for me and my friends, it was and still is known as “Sexy Bar.” The window seating in this big bar acts more like a window display for the coolest, trendiest kids you’ve ever seen in Xberg. The staff don’t smile, but they’re prompt. Prices are reasonable. Seating is limited. Clientele are arrogant, but mostly have a thin shell to crack. Highly recommended, unless you aren’t a contract model, fashion designer, or makeup artist.

Mobel Olfe: Mobel Olfe off Adalbertstr.

Mobel Olfe is not only the name of a fun, loud, fashionable gay bar, it is also the name of the scary housing complex (primarily for recovering heroin addicts) that it resides in. The bar will make you feel safe and warm, but going outside is the best reminder you’ve ever had to stay away from drugs. Clientele and staff alike are extremely, extremely friendly, and drinks are cheap. Come here to meet someone, gay or straight (because “gay bar” in Berlin is a little more loosely translated than it is in New York), have a fun conversation about your favorite classic rock musician or up and coming dance sensation, and go home feeling relaxed, because, Hey, that bottle of wine you guys split only cost you four euros each! Highly recommended, unless you can’t bear to step over a few passed out guys on your walk home.

Monarch: Skalitzerstr. & Adalbertstr, Past Kaiser’s

Monarch is one of the many unmarked, second floor bars in Berlin that you “just have to know about.” Except, Monarch is quickly fading and might need to start employing another method of advertising besides word of mouth. The DJs are fun, the scene is chic, and the panoramic view of lower Kreuzberg is astonishing. That said, the drinks are overpriced and the staff make you feel bad about your broken German, meanwhile the clientele is pretty sparse these days. Highly recommended unless you don’t want to feel like you’re throwing a party that no one else showed up to.

Ankerklause: Admiralstr. On the south side of the Bridge.

Ankerklause has a jukebox. The people who come to Ankerklause, it seems, know how to operate this jukebox in the best way. Mix this with cheap, but very limited drinks, classic American bar food, a consistently good amount of people (except on Thursdays, when it’s way too crowded), and its beautiful location overlooking the water, and you’ve got one of the best bars in Kreuzberg. Highly recommended unless you aren’t looking for a low-key setting that night.

Trinkteufel (“Drink Devil”): Adalbertstr. & Naunynstr.

This bar is loud, punk, and rambunctious. Its unapologetic, and rightfully so. This is the place to come for piercings, tattoos, Mohawks, patchwork leather jackets, and safety pins. It’s not exactly my sort of place, so my visit was short lived. Highly recommended unless you are often scared by people who’s alliance with political extremes defines their entire lifestyle.

Rote Rose: Adalbertstr. & Oranienstr.

I, myself, have never been into Rote Rose but decided it worth mentioning because it is, supposedly, the best bar in Xberg for finding drugs and prostitutes. Highly recommended unless you don’t want to be that guy getting arrested out front at 1am.

(Un-named) “Tapas Bar”: Orianienstr. & Heinrich Pl.

I discovered the low key tapas bar one night just looking for a new place to go. It’s lighting is a tad harsh, but still warm, and the drinks are reasonably priced. Mixed drinks (or “Longdrinks”) come in large glasses, and their beers are all half liters. The small snack foods are great, and the atmosphere screams “first date.” Highly recommended unless you’re under 35 and feel like showing it.

Kubertus Lounge: Eisenbahnstr. 6

Kubertus is another Kreuzberg secret. My tandem language partner (a High School senior living in Kreuzberg) showed me this bar. The menu is really interesting, subscribing to a definite dada-collage aesthetic, and the bar itself, is entirely cozy. Overstuffed couches and plush chairs line the place, making small corners for people to sit and have intimate conversation. This would be a much younger type of “first date” place, I might say. And, before I forget, Kubertus has a revolving book case that leads to a staircase to its basement whereupon entering, it’s transformed into a club every Friday and Saturday night. Highly recommended, unless you don’t like to surprise people.

S036: Between Adalbertstr. & Heinrich Pl.

S036 is a nightclub with a heart of gold. There’s nothing too remarkable about this place from the looks of it. In fact, one might even say that the cover price is just too much for what one gets: decent, but certainly not famous, DJs, and a dancefloor that offers some fun lighting and the occasional spurt of chemical fog. Even so, I try to go to S036 as often as I can because the club is actually a non-profit for immigrant and gay rights in Kreuzberg. Highly recommended unless you don’t feel charitable.

Berghain/Panorama Bar: Just follow the pounding base behind S-Ostbahnhof

I do realize that I’ve written about Berghain during my blog post on the subject of authenticity, but it’s definitely still worth writing about some more. This three-floor megaclub club, with no reflective surfaces, has been voted the best club in the world. The door policy is disgustingly arbitrary and frustrates so many people on a nightly basis, but, if you wait it out and finally get in, the experience will be mindblowing. They have an incredible sound system and light stage in every single one of their gigantic rooms, and they have a labyrinth-like maze of smoking rooms, bath rooms, sex rooms, and food bars lining the ulterior of the main rooms. Highly recommended unless you haven’t decided where you’ll go if you get rejected that night.

Fritzclub: S-Ostbahnhof (Immediately outside, to the East)

Another huge club with a great sound system and light show, but Fritz is pretty pricey and its scene is a little tacky. Highly recommended if you want to party in a church seven days a week.

Watergate: Oberbaumstr. & Grobenuferstr.

Like Berghain, Watergate also has a heavy-handed door policy to encourage it being remembered as an authentic experience. But, Watergate’s policy is slightly less anti-American than Berghain, so if you look like you want to have fun and are a little more dressy than might be acceptable at Berghain, then Watergate is a definite solution. The prices and drinks, as well as number of famous DJs that frequent this hotspot, match Berghain. However, the doormen/bouncers are a little friendlier, and don’t mind a smile or conversation while you’re in line. Highly recommended if you’ve just been rejected by Berghain but refuse to go home.

Bar 25: An Der Schiling Brucke (S-Ostbahnhof)

This club, right on the Spree, is only open during the summer. But, during the summer, its open almost all the time. People sit out on the patio it offers at all times, and as long as its not too late, no one pays a cover. The views of the river are breathtaking, and the club-feel to this place is much less than overwhelming. There’s also a fantastic tire-swing that always has a line (never too long) that you can take for a ride right above the river. Highly recommended, unless you hate the summer.

Club de Visionaire: Schlesischestr. & Schleusenufer.

Like Bar 25, Club de Visionaire is only open during the summer. Like Bar 25, Club de Visionaire is located right on the river. Unlike Bar 25, Club de Visionaire is solely based outside, in a small garden, where blasting beats and overcrowded thoroughfares do not match the type of experience you’d love to be having there. If you can snag a spot on the floating dock it boasts, you’re in for a treat, but chances are you’ll be huddled between two shouting Germans, a thorn tree, clutching your 7 euro drink for dear life. Highly recommend, unless you don’t have the magical power to make people leave.

Restaurants:

Helvetia: Neunynstr. & Manteuffelstr.

A Swiss-German treat, this cute restaurant offers a host of fine “potato-cakes,” “onion-cakes,” and traditional spatzles. They have a huge selection of beers and wines, and their prices are extremely reasonable for the quality of food. The staff is small and happy, and willing to help you translate their exclusively-German menu. If you’re hungry and willing to spend, I recommend splitting the fondue-for-two and the Swiss version of cheese spatzle. Highly recommended.

Henne: Neunynstr & Lauschnerdamm

Another keystone in understanding German authenticity, as I wrote before, this restaurant only serves half-fried-chickens (Milchchicken) with the sides of potato salad or sauerkraut. They also only offer three beers. Highly recommended, unless you’re, like me, a vegetarian (vegetarisch).

Maroush: Adalbertstr Between Oranienstr & S-Kottbusser Tor

Maroush offers cheap Middle-Eastern sandwiches and dishes. It’s specifically Lebanese, which means it’s the best place to go for hummus and for falafel. It’s hard to say what makes Maroush so great, but, like with most things, it’s probably the classic atmosphere. Highly recommended for a cheap lunch, especially if you have a longing for New York’s famous Mamoun's.

Hasir: Adalbertstr Between Oranienstr & S-Kottbusser Tor

Hasir offers Turkish foods to a much more refined palate. The setting in this restaurant is definitely upscale, but they still cook their kebabs right in front of their customers. Their Turkish hummus is much different than classic Lebanese hummus, but still very delicious. Highly recommended if you’re parents are in town, picking up the bill, and want to know what Kreuzberg is all about.

Cream: S-Schlesisches Tor, to the South

Cream is the ideal place for brunch after a long weekend of drinking and dancing. The meals are hearty and reasonably priced. The staff are friendly and allow you time to read while you’re trying to shake off your hang over. True, too, is that this is definitely a place where you’re likely to see that guy or girl you were dancing with last night, and make one last effort to exchange numbers, or have sober conversation. Highly recommended for a more relaxed, daylight version of that party scene you craved so hard.

Markthalle: Manteuffelstr. & Reichenberger Str.

The final place I wrote about in my post on the subject of authenticity, Markthalle does not buy into the idea of fanciness or extras. A limited menu and a limited selection of beers, Markthalle is another great place for fine German dining. Although, as I mentioned in my last post, the prices are a little higher than what you grow to expect of places in Kreuzberg. That said, if you aren’t a vegetarian, this is place to get Weinerschnitzel—the sort of Weinerschnitzel counter-part to the Milchchicken offered at Henne. Highly recommended, again, if your parents are in town and want a real, German experience.

Kim-Qui: Orianienstr. Between Adalbertstr. & Dresdener Str.

Vietnamese at its finest and cheapest, Kim-Qui has an excellent selection of pho and glass-noodle options that have kept me coming there all semester. There owner and primary waitress, not to mention, is one of the sweetest women you’ll have ever met in your life. It’s small, but cozy, and you’ll find yourself relaxing while listening to all your favorite 90’s pop singles on the restaurants apparently limited soundtrack. I definitely recommend the boiled, rather than fried, summer rolls with tofu. And remember to tip, because you’ll definitely be remembered by the owner the next time you come back.

Calexico: Orianienstr. Between Adalbertstr. & Dresdener Str.

Literally, the only place in Europe that I recommend getting Mexican food. After having been served shredded cabbage as a side to my “vegetarian burrito,” in Poland, it’ll be no problem returning to the US, where actual Mexican food lines the streets. Calexico, owned and operated by Mexican immigrants, is the only place that does burritos, quesadillas, and salsa right in Berlin. The prices are a little high, but unless you know how to make Mexican yourself, you might just have to splurge a little.

Kuchen Kaiser (King of the Kitchen): Erkelenzdamm (In the Square/Platz)

The best breakfast/brunch spot in Kreuzberg. It’s huge and has a diner feel, and the waitresses give you the same look when you ask them if they speak English as waitresses at diners in the US might give if you asked them if they spoke German. You’ll just have to deal, but it makes it easier that they have menus in English and, every Sunday, offer a really beautiful all-you-can-eat (“American Style”) breakfast buffet for nine euros. And, before I forget, Kuchen Kaiser also takes credit cards, something very, very few establishments here in Berlin offer. Highly recommended, unless one of your main reasons for going abroad was to avoid diner-style eating.

Radost FX

Take the green line to the Namesti Miru metro stop, or the red metro line or tram to I.P. Pavlova and walk a short distance on the cobblestone streets, and prepare yourself for a wonderful state of mind sure to last all day with a morning stop at the slightly touristy, but still amazingly fun Radost FX. Upon your arrival on a weekend morning, you can expect to find a wonderful brunch that is easily accessible for almost any budget. What most people don’t realize, however is that Radost FX’s brunch is geared toward vegetarians. However, don’t let the lack of bacon and sausage deter you; Radost’s breakfast is a staple not to be missed whilst in Prague. Whatever you choose to order, from Radost’s famous “Elvis” bagel, to its equally scrumptious Greek God omelet, the establishment is never one to disappoint at any given part of the day, thanks in part to its ambience, as well as its surprisingly well speaking English staff. You see, Radost FX has a bit of a Clark Kent complex. Yet on weekend mornings before 11 a.m., it is a place for a leisurely meal where one can be assured to eat something both satisfying and delicious. By night however, Radost FX gets its Superman on, and transforms itself into a nightclub worthy of mention in any Prague guidebook.

The club is so noteworthy in fact, that famed international pop artist Rihanna shot the music video for her hit single “Please Don’t Stop The Music “ inside its nightclub. One step inside Radost FX, and the rich deep red velvets envelop you, beckoning you to come in further. Once inside, a Moulin Rouge inspired décor surrounds you, as plush couches with regal embroidery help establish a swanky upscale atmosphere that would not be out of place in New York City’s SoHo or the East Village neighborhood. Bass rhythms shake the black lacquered floors, pleading you to dance atop them. Once downstairs in the main area, a bar glowing a cool blue serves up any sort of concoction one can imagine. Decadent chandeliers hang from the ceiling, threatening to come loose and crash to the ground as they shake from the vibrations rattling from the dance floor. The dance floor is a bit cramped, but those seeking refuge can climb the steps to the DJ platform which acts as a pseudo-dance floor that often ends up being the best place to dance. Those looking for a more relaxed night can opt to sit in Radost’s expansive lounge area that also glows a distinct cool blue, while getting a drink from the contrasting red bar area, located close by. Whatever time of day you choose to come to Radost FX, or whatever your mood is, whether it be leisurely or party-friendly, you can be assured to have a great time at Radost FX.

Weekend Club in Berlin at Alexanderplatz ("Alexa"): A Fun Place to Party and Watch the Sun RiseDear Future NYU-Berliners,

I’ll state the assumptions I’m working with in writing this letter to you forwardly: that you are exactly like me. I know it might seem silly to tell you that I’m writing from my own perspective in such a blatant manner, but I guess I just have no way of telling how any given individual will respond. A lot of people, based on the feelings I’ve expressed in past posts and what I know from conversations with other NYU students, have had differing or even opposing experiences than what I’ve had. I’m sure it’s the case going into any study abroad program, so I guess I’ll make that be my first piece of advice: don’t make the assumption that your reaction to a new place will be the same as anyone else’s. This is along the lines of don’t bring assumptions about your abroad site to your abroad site, as NYU so often advises—but I think I’m adding an important dimension by advising you to also leave your assumptions about how your own culture will react to the place you’re going at home, in your own culture. People grow and change abroad and it’s really beautiful to watch it happen, but it’s important that you know that you won’t all grown and change in similar ways.

Moving on:

"Authentic" Berlin: BerghainThere are two differing versions of the production of authenticity as I see it. One of them, on which our reading is based, involves the production of authenticity to serve as a means of drawing in “travelers,” who apparently, upon falling into this type of forged authenticity, transition to being “tourists.” Of course, this transition can’t be seen nor do I find it to be especially worth discussing at great length. However, I do feel that I could sum up what I believe happens into a simple, albeit certainly debatable and perhaps disagreeable, summation.

Reflecting on Marx, it seems that the difference between the “traveler” and the “tourist” stems out of the ongoing class struggle that came out of industrialization. The old elites, those who became those who held the means of production and were at one point the only ones who could afford traveling and seeing far-off lands. As travel became more and more accessible, “tourism” was invented as a way to distinguish those going on vacation from those who were part of the elite, cultured class and wanted to see the world. Being a tourist has been produced as linguistically negative term that no one wants to be associated with and, as such, no one wants to do anything that could be perceived as “inauthentic,” which roughly translates to anything designed for a tourist. So, anytime anyone finds something to do while traveling that has made them FEEL like they were getting an ACTUAL experience of a NEW culture by way of their own INDEPENDENT adventures and means, they’ve labeled it “authentic.” Naturally, the tourist industry has tapped into this desire and come up with ways of giving people the “illusion” of authenticity (which seems like an illusion of an illusion) while profiting at the same time.

On the other hand, there seems to be another type of produced “authenticity” that is designed to keep people out. Here, in Berlin, there are so many things that are only for “real Berliners,” and the criteria of authenticity is used to, instead of enhance numbers and profits, actually keep people out. I guess the same thing happens in New York, but I’ve never experienced in the same way that I have here (perhaps because I am DEFINITELY a “REAL” New Yorker).

So, in order to exemplify what my feelings of the two productions of authenticity are in Berlin, I will discuss restaurants (for the former/De Boton reading of authenticity) and night life (for the latter, my reading of authenticity here).

First, as for restaurants, there are two restaurants here in my neighborhood, Kreutzberg, that I’m currently working on reviews of. First, there’s Henne (pronounced “hen-UH”) that’s about a ten minute walk from my apartment. Henne is perceived to be the most authentic restaurant that we’ve gone to, despite the fact that we were all told about it and given directions there from numerous people. They are friendly to tourists. I, myself, have even been there twice, and will probably go again later in the week when I have a guest coming. It’s fun to be sure. The beamed ceilings and unfinished, hard-wood floor give this place a real Black Forest feel, while the ceramic, carved beer steins only add to the rustic feeling. It is famous for its “milchschinken,” or half-of-a-fried-chicken-served-without-sides. It’s good that it’s famous for this, because it’s the only thing on the menu besides beer and sauerkraut.

Next, we’ve got Markthalle (pronounced MARKT-all-eh), about a 15 minute walk away. No, we weren’t directly led to this one. A friend of mine on the trip brought me there, laying claim to the place, saying triumphantly, “I found this place all on my own! It looks so German! They say they have the best weiner schnitzel in all of Berlin!” The décor matched Henne’s, the menu, though with slightly more options, still had the rustic aesthetics of Henne’s, the staff, all scarily-Aryan looking, matched Henne’s. It felt like Henne. Then we sat down and got our menus-for-tourists, written in English, French, Spanish, and Italian.

So, what’re my accusations against these places? Every member of the staff speaks perfect English (and a number of other languages), the food is absurdly overpriced, we were directly led there for an “authentic” experience if not by people, by design and advertising, and no guest, that I’ve encountered at either place, speaks to the staff in German. Furthermore, at least half of the imagery that they draw upon to create the “authentic” feel comes from Southern Germany, not Berlin.

As for my reading of a second type of authenticity, I will herein discuss the club Berghain (pronounced bierk-AYN, a word only native Germans can pronounce correctly, I should add). Berghain rests on the border of Kreutzberg and Freidrichshain, and derives its name from a combination of the last four letters of both of these formerly East German neighborhoods. Like Williamsburg, East Berlin has only recently Gentrified and become trendy. According to residentadvisor.net (click picture above), Kreutzberg is now the center of Electro, and Berghain is the number one club in Berlin. An old electric factory, this place now bumps so loudly with bass every Saturday (or actually Sunday since it opens at 12am and doesn’t close until 12pm Sunday afternoon), that it can be heard from 10 minutes away in any direction. The second floor of Berghain (or Panarama bar) can, too, be seen from about 10 minutes away, with multicolored laser lights flashing from its windows. From what I was told from the one person I know who’s been inside, the place is never crowded. This is odd since there’s always about a 40 minute wait to get inside. But, this place keeps its authenticity by keeping out the riff-raff. That is, you are firmly judged by a bouncer, who in roughly 9 out of 10 cases, simply firmly dismisses you. Also according to resident advisor, the criterion for getting in does not involve looks. It involves whether or not you respond to the bouncer, who invariably speaks English to you, also in English or in German (never speak English or act like you know what he said to you), whether or not you look the bouncer in the eye (NEVER look the bouncer in the eye), how apathetic you look (the more apathetic the better), and how poorly dressed you are (the more poorly, the better). And so, this place keeps world-famous DJs fighting to play there and crowds of people fighting to pay 20 euro covers every Saturday night. I, myself, have an anxiety attack just thinking about trying to be that authentic.